Plaza de Pedro Zerolo

When Pedro Zerolo died of cancer in June 2015, Madrid's response was to give him Chueca's central square. The councillor and lifelong activist had been the political architect of Spain's 2005 marriage-equality law — which made Spain the third country in the world to open marriage to same-sex couples, years ahead of most of Europe. The renaming carried its own symbolism twice over: the square had borne the name of Vázquez de Mella, a Carlist ideologue, and the change was made partly under Spain's Historical Memory Law — the far right has tried and failed to reverse it since. The name became official in May 2016, and the square now sits at the heart of everything Chueca does, from terrace evenings to the crush of Madrid Pride, Europe's largest. What you see today: a living neighbourhood square — cafés, benches, locals — rather than a monument. Which is the point: Zerolo's memorial is the ordinariness of what he won. Steps from Chueca metro and the Puerta del Sol memorial plaque.