Carmen Rupe Crossing Lights

At four crossings along Cuba Street, Wellington's green 'walking man' is someone else entirely: the unmistakable silhouette — beehive hair, dress, heels — of Carmen Rupe. Rupe was the capital's most famous trans woman: drag performer, owner of the legendary Carmen's International Coffee Lounge and other Cuba Street venues in the 1960s-70s, HIV/AIDS activist, and a 1977 mayoral candidate whose campaign platform (decriminalisation, drinking-age reform) was decades ahead of the law. The lights went up in August 2016, timed to the 30th anniversary of the Homosexual Law Reform Act 1986 — the law her visibility helped make imaginable — and stand where her venues actually traded. What you see today: the lights themselves (New Zealand's first such tribute), the 2018 rainbow crossing nearby, and Cuba Street's general bohemia. There is no standalone monument to the 1986 reform — Parliament's Rainbow Room and these lights carry that memory — which makes Carmen, striding green above her own street, Wellington's queer landmark. Cross on her signal.