BARÃO DA ITARARÉ

Barão da Itararé, on Rua Peixoto Gomide near Rua Frei Caneca, is a bar-restaurant that's a staple of São Paulo's gay scene. It's named after Aparício Torelly, a Brazilian humorist who called himself Barão de Itararé. You'll find a mixed crowd here, mostly 30- to 50-year-olds, gay and straight alike. The cachaça list is the main draw, with over 50 labels to choose from. The menu's got everything from bar snacks to full plates. On Sundays, they used to have live jazz and MPB - it's worth checking if that's still on. It's a good spot to start the night before moving on to the bars on Rua Frei Caneca. Check the hours before you go, as they're not confirmed. You can grab a drink here and then head out to explore the rest of the area.