Catania: Sicily's Surprising Gay City
Most visitors to Sicily head for Palermo or Taormina; Catania is the one they underestimate. Rebuilt entirely in Baroque lava stone after the 1693 earthquake, Sicily's second city sits directly at the foot of Etna and has a dynamic university culture that produces a social scene disproportionate to its 310,000 population. The gay scene here is modest — three bars, one sauna — but more openly operated than in the larger Palermo, and the city's physical setting makes it one of Italy's most memorable places regardless of sexual orientation.
Bohème near Piazza Stesicoro is the main gay bar: good cocktails, DJ sets on weekends, mixed gay/lesbian crowd. Frequenze on the spectacular Via Crociferi is the cultural and aperitivo alternative. Sauna Zeus serves the sauna market in the centro storico. Catania Pride in July routes down Via Etnea — the long straight street aimed directly at Etna's summit.
Why Catania
Catania is the right base for a Sicily trip that combines the gay scene, the Baroque architecture, Etna (accessible by cable car), and proximity to Taormina (45 minutes by train). The city's fish market, the Pescheria, is one of the great spectacles of Italian urban life. The food is outstanding. The lava-stone streets after midnight, when the city empties, are among the most atmospheric urban walks in Italy.
